If you love a mystery, consider a vacation on Kauai, Hawaii.
The mystery involves the neighboring island of Ni’ihau, Hawaii. The Robinson family has owned this island since 1864 and does not allow tourists. Ni’ihau is the westernmost of the main Hawaiian islands, measuring 550 square miles.
Ni’ihau (Nee-ee-how) is separated from Kauai by a 17-mile strait. Standing on the Kauai shore, you can see Ni’ihau slung low on the horizon. If you could go to Ni’ihau you would hear native Hawaiian spoken. In fact, it’s the only place you can go to hear native Hawaiian spoken as a living language. Hawaiian is taught in the island’s K-8 school.
Islanders of course are free to leave and come back, so many of them do. They need to in order to get provisions from Kauai to live on the dry island, which is in the rain shadow of the ancient volcano cone on Kauai, Wai-ale-ale, “the wettest spot on earth” at 460 inches per year of rainfall.
Ni’ihau has supported plenty of sheep over the years. The Robinson family maintained sheep ranches there for many years.
The women of Ni’ihau string tiny shells into complex shell leis, a stunning folk art. Their families comb the beaches to find the miniature, pearl-like shells, collecting them in a variety of colors–whites, browns, and reds. Then they sort the shells. The artist uses a simple awl to make a hole in each tiny shell, breaking at least half of them in the process. Because there are no cars on the island, bicycles are plentify, and her awl may be made from a recycled bicycle spoke.
The Ni’ihau shell leis are precious in part because the shells are rare on other Hawaiian islands. Kauai, for example, was home of sugar plantations for many years. The agricultural runoff has destroyed many of the sea creatures that make shells.
So, how did Ni’ihau form? Was it the first Hawaiian island, at the opposite end of the chain from the most recently formed one, the Big Island of Hawaii? Ancient Hawaiians thought it was the first one, the original home of the volcano goddess Pele, who hopped islands over the ages and is currently living in the active volcano on the Big Island. But scientists say that Kauai is the oldest island, and that Ni’ihau is a side vent of the volcano that formed Kauai. Ni’ihau is flat and sandy, except for an eroded lava dome on the eastern side of the island. There are also two freshwater lakes.
Mysterious Ni’ihau lies in the distance. You’d love to go there. So you look for maps and pictures of the place. But what if you just have to go there? In fact, the Robinson family will let you come, for a healthy fee. A few helicopter tours to remote teaches are allowed now, as well as some hunting safaris to cull feral bighorn sheep and Polynesian boars. You can always scuba dive offshore, too.
Access to Ni’ihau is from Kauai, 17 miles away. While you’re on Kauai, you’ll want to play on the beaches and in the surf. You’ll also want to look at the stunning natural wonder that is the Na Pali coast, the northwest side of Kauai.



