The strong-growing varieties can be grown as cordons if the site is warm and the soil good. The rows have to be 6 feet apart and the cordons 10 feet apart in the rows. The cordons are trained horizontally and thus stakes and wiring must be provided. Under this system a stake with a minimum diameter of 3 inches, and preferably chestnut, should, when 2 feet of its base has been thoroughly treated with Cuprinol, be driven into the ground securely so that the top is 2 feet 3 inches above soil level.
They could also be grown on the ‘Grow as you like’ system, being allowed to scramble over a trellis or cover a fence or wall. Under this system very little pruning is necessary, though it does pay to cut back the fruiting laterals in the summer at two leaves above a bunch.
Once again in January cut back these 3 canes to within two buds of their base. Thus you will see that you are now producing your goblet-shaped bush with 6 branches. Each one of these 6 branches may carry six or seven bunches of grapes and the following January again they will be cut back to within two buds.
Do not, however, allow 12 rods to be produced or you may not be able to ripen the fruit. Stick to 6 or 7 rods tied to strong bamboos or stakes to form a goblet and gradually these shoots will bear more bunches of grapes up to, say, 8 per rod. Do not be tempted to reduce the pruning by cutting say to 5 buds, and do not be tempted either to try and make the vine crop more heavily.
Powdery Mildew causes white patches to appear on the leaves and then the fruit, then the young shoots. Individual grapes that are attacked will either fall or go rotten. Vines that are mulched are seldom attacked with mildew, and when the young laterals are properly spaced out, so that they are not overcrowded, this disease seldom appears. Dusting the plants with a fine sulphur dust largely cures the trouble when seen.
This method is not suitable for varieties producing very thin canes or for those which bear the best fruit at the end of very long canes.



